Farmers near Hanoi

After a bit of confusion with the local travel agent, who thought we had cancelled our day trip, we were on the road at 10am this morning to the fields around Hanoi. A few tourist spots were also in the itinerary.

We managed to stop and talk to two small rice growers. The first, Nguyen Huu Chan, has been growing rice since 1990 on his 224 sq m plot of land. The second, Nguyen Thi Dung, has been growing rice for 37 years, since she was 7 years old. Both farmers are experiencing warmer weather this season which is good for them as the rice at this time of year is normally very slow growing. Sometimes the weather is drier than in the past. It is hard to generalise from two brief informal interviews, but these two small farmers exemplified what our friends here have said in terms of many people not being well informed about what is happening more widely in terms of climate change and its local relevance.

Nguyen Thi Dung in her small rice field
Nguyen Thi Dung in her small rice field
The film crew, near Hanoi
The film crew, near Hanoi

There are important issues here in Viet Nam. Rapid urban development and industrial expansion are leading to loss of productive land, intensification of agriculture is taking place. These various pressures make the life of the small farmer relatively tenuous, particularly on the urban fringe. There are also other issues such as ongoing deforestation, some of which is illegal, and the need to balance this with reafforestation programmes.

In our upcoming visit to Thai Nguyen Province we hope to share a few positive stories from farmers in that area, some of whom I have visited in the past.

In Viet Nam

After a hectic, but extremely productive, schedule in Thailand we’ve been enjoying a bit of rest and recovery time since arriving in Hanoi on Sunday. I’ve also been working to facilitate an itinerary for the rest of our time in Viet Nam. Things aren’t as easy here and it is taking a little time to organise something.

I’ve made contact with my former MPhil student, Mao, from my days as a Senior Research Fellow at University of Waikato. We’ll be heading north of Hanoi, to Thai Nguyen, on the weekend and doing some things there for a couple of days.  After that we’ll be coming back to Hanoi and then heading south to Hue.

Tomorrow we’ve booked a local tour, with a car and tour guide to accompany us, northeast of Hanoi for the day. We’ll be visiting a craft village and stopping where we can to talk to a few farmers and do some filming.

Reflections from Thailand

This morning we were up early to go to the temple with Khun Yai, and then back to Bangkok. We’ll be up early tomorrow morning to catch our flight to Hanoi. As I’ve already said before, we have met some wonderful people here in Thailand. The issues we are facing are global. Local people are observing and experiencing changes in climate. However, we don’t need to feel helpless or depressed. The only true solutions in my view will come about from positive local actions, and that view has been strongly reinforced by the people we have met in Thailand. There is real potential for Thailand to provide us all with leadership for the future, towards a more balanced approach to working with our environment. The self sufficiency economy is founded on long-held wisdom that the true foundation of a sustainable economy is a well-balanced ecology. Working with nature, not withdrawal from nature or against nature, is the key.

Naku village farmers

Pacharee, friend of Khun Yai, looked after us for the morning along with Mr Santi Jeeyapan. Santi works as a facilitator to support villagers doing farm based research. We drove out to Naku Village, near Ayutthaya, where we met with three local farmers: Pattapee Poungsuwan, Somnuk Sanksem, and Yaowaluck Sukseeleang. We interviewed all three together in quite a challenging setting, a small roadside cafe. All three farmers have decided to move towards organic production because of concerns with degradation of the land and the high cost of inputs. The climate has definitely changed with more erratic weather patterns than in the past. Last September there was widespread flooding in Thailand and Ayutthaya Province was one of the worst affected, because it is low lying. They were all clear that the cause of the problem is people and that there is a need for a more balanced approach working with nature.

Farmers from Naku village - Somnuk Sanksem, Yaowaluck Sukseeleang, and Pattapee Poungsuwan
Farmers from Naku village - Somnuk Sanksem, Yaowaluck Sukseeleang, and Pattapee Poungsuwan

Yaowaluck Sukseeleang and Pattapee Poungsuwan both had their farms right next to the cafe,  so we went into the field to talk to them some more.

Yaowaluck is an amazing woman. She learnt rice growing from her parents, beginning when she was 10 years old and has now been a rice farmer for 29 years. Yaowaluck farmers 56 rai (about 20 acres, or 8 hectares) on her own. At times in the past she has felt depressed and tried other work. People think farming is a dirty job, but she is clearly very passionate about her work and life as a farmer. Yaowaluck is a true leader for the future.

Yaowaluck Sukseeleang (on left), organic rice farmer, Naku Village
Yaowaluck Sukseeleang (on left), organic rice farmer, Naku Village

We then walked down the road to Pattapee’s farm. He stopped growing rice and shifted to organic vegetable production for the Bangkok market. This was a more financially viable option for him, as well as good for the environment.

Pattapee Poungsuwan, organic vegetable grower, Naku Village
Pattapee Poungsuwan, organic vegetable grower, Naku Village

Ayutthaya

Fortunately today has been a bit quieter, a short trip (1 hour) by taxi to the old city of Ayutthaya and visiting some of the old Wat (temple) ruins (in incredible heat and humidity). We actually ordered the taxi to take us to the train station, but then the taxi driver said he would take us all the way for 700 baht (less than NZ$30).

Tomorrow we’re going out to a local village, our last bit on the ground in Thailand.

We spent part of the afternoon visiting some of the ruins of Ayutthaya with our new host, Khun Yai. In the evening we went to a night market for dinner by the river and then drove around to enjoy the ruins lit up at night time.

View from the ruins of Wat Ratcha Burana, Ayutthaya
View from the ruins of Wat Ratcha Burana, Ayutthaya
Night scene at Ayutthaya
Night scene at Ayutthaya